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  2. Nope. And that wouldn't help anyway, they fit fine, just the the ridge on the bottom makes no sense. I don't need to go a half size up
  3. again this produces a zero effect on the player. its making the same argument as claiming that pulling threads from your jersey or cutting the tag out makes you faster or less fatigued. it doesnt. all the tens of thousands of pounds of force that a player, especially a pro, produces during a game are entirely unaffected by a 2 ounce lighter skate blade. a blade on the ice creating ice melt has all the weight of the player on it, plus the compression force of the players leg accelerating that mass forward. so its 185+ lbs plus whatever compression force from the leg muscle. the weight of the skate blade is entirely negligible in that equation. the arguments being made here are purely semantics and not at all practical. its like talking about being faster by not wearing socks. its ludicrous.
  4. Today
  5. Is there not a removeable toe bumper in the half-sizes? I have heard it can be removed to allow for expansion of foot length.
  6. I’d really love if True could either rivet the tendon guards themselves or use a stronger/better lasting screw that holds the tendon guard. I’m very careful taking my skates off and dry out my skates after every use and this is the 4th time in a year one of the tendon guard screws have broken. Unfortunately this time the screw snapped too deep in the tendon guard that I might need a new tendon guard. Not the end of the world, but still a pain in the arse to deal with.
  7. I'm generally very happy with my TF9s, but a few folks have mentioned the little ridge in the front bottom of the toe cap on the half sizes. Does this go away? Didn't bother me for a while, but the other day I got tripped and while trying to catch myself, I felt my big toe jam into that ridge and it left a nice bruise on the front of my toe. Not broken, but still uncomfortable and I've never had such a thing happen in any other skate. Hoping the ridge there will eventually compress or something, but if anyone can speak from experience I'd appreciate it
  8. Indeed. And then Bauer copied Step steel with higher runners, and improved steel. So back then noone noticed a difference going to heavier runners, and yet we are now told that weight is a significant factor. I’ll just stick to ordinary non carbon runners made from decent steel.
  9. Hey, California guy playing my first pond hockey tournament in January. Any gear recommendations? I was planning on wearing my bottom of the line shins and a mission roller girdle, but I just realized I don't know how physical it is. Playing in the US Pond Hockey Championships in Minneapolis in the Rink Rat division. Any advice would be great.
  10. Though then a lighter runner would glide faster, but sharper edges could be used to counteract the loss of mass for ploughing force. Here’s a very basic article essentially stating that all, and none, of the explanations for the slipperiness of ice are completely accurate. https://www.insidescience.org/news/why-ice-slippery-its-not-simple-question yeah, I don’t disagree with that at all. Even if friction melting is happening, most people are going to see more improvement by reducing weight in other places, mostly their midsections!
  11. Both Bauer and CCM produced a perforated runner for a while. Bauer's had small triangles cut out. CCM used larger scoops. As Buzz pointed out, durability was an issue, especially on the Bauer version. Step Steel has always been considered superior because of the steel they are made from. It's a better quality, more consistent, sharpened better, and held an edge longer. The height and weight aren't as big of a factor.
  12. Bauer has tried it on a few variations of Vapors, the 8/10 series and the XX come to mind. Maybe there’s a proper balance but it seemed the lost durability in the runner outweighed (no pun) any benefits from reduced weight.
  13. ^^^ This! I also have the bump and wear my shoes similarly to what the OP describes. Getting the heel punched definitely helps make room for the bump and I've found allows my heel to sit deeper in the heel pocket and make better contact with the boot.
  14. That does help, quite a bit. I don't expect a profile to be some magical change, but maybe allow me to feel more comfortable doing some of the things that I'm still having issues developing. At this point, with as much time on ice as I've been able to get, I think that what I'm currently using might be holding me back a bit in terms of further developing some skills and being able to trust and apply at game speeds. I know that trusting your edges is the key to translating skills from practice, and I just don't have that right now. I'm also looking at getting new skates since I got resized (this time by someone who really seemed to know what they were doing) and found that Supreme Fit 3 was the direction I needed to go. Which I guess also has the Bauer 'power profile' stock from the mfg...not sure if I should just roll with that or get an extra set of steel with a 9.5/10.5 or a 10/12. I guess time will tell, trying different setups like you mentioned over a long period of time.
  15. Exactly. And how does that figure compare to traditional steel runners, which of course never break. (Irony alert.) I presume aluminium runners are a no go because they wouldn’t hold an edge. Has anyone ever taken a traditional runner, and milled away a significant portion of the metal? I imagine a lattice structure would preserve a lot of the mechanical properties whilst reducing weight. Perhaps it is too hard to do economically, as stainless steel is not an easy material to machine, especially the hard kind used in runners. For higher end players these light runners might decide a game, but for average UK rec players (no idea about US and Canada) they’d be better off getting power skating lessons, learning more hockey technique, going to the gym, and losing weight, as suggested earlier. Oh, and another point. I remember when Step steel became popular, in part due to the increased height. That of course meant more steel and more weight. People were saying Step was so much better than Bauer steel for example. Now it seems that weight is no longer good, it’s bad. I’m confused … Maybe what we are seeing here is the applied placebo effect.
  16. I'm not going to comment on the durability of liners, hopefully someone who works in a shop and sees lots of skates on a daily basis can make a more informed comment @PBH What I would ask is if you pronate or supinate? That wearing of the inside of shoes generally comes from the heel rolling and twisting in the shoe. If you do this in street shoes then it's almost guaranteed you will do the same in skates. You can fix your bio mechanics in skates but it takes a lot of time (you want to be skating at least 3 times a week) and doing specific training (ask if you want to know more). And that bump on the back of your heels is called a Haglunds bump, it and pronation generally go hand in hand. I urge you to get your boot punched for it, over time as your foot rolls in the boot the bump keeps banging against the hard shell, this causes irritation and the body responds by growing more bone so the bump gets bigger. Then your achillies gets irritated and your bursa get inflamed, then you can't skate, even just looking at skates makes the bump ache. So do yourself a giant favour for your long term skating health, make sure every pair of boots you buy you get punched for those bumps (and try and get a vertical channel punched, not just a round punch. Then if you get any heel lift at all the bump rides up and down in the channel.)
  17. 4.5 min in a preheated oven is a lot longer than what instructions state a max recommended time of 2 mins. Is that safe? Could it lead to long term deterioration of the boot?
  18. Depending on what the inside of the boot looks like you can nip off 3/4 of the prong so it will grab the inside of the boot but not damage the inside part of the skate outsole. I’ve had to do this on several occasions and never had a problem.
  19. The prongs go on the inside of the boot, they are there to drive into the sole so they stop the shaft from spinning as you tighten the bolt. However if you are putting them into a boot with a carbon fibre sole then I suggest you file them down so there is just a small nub left (or break them off bar one), I have seen instances where they have cracked the sole.
  20. Yesterday
  21. Interesting. I'm not clear on where the prongs go into (inside of the boot I'm assuming but how do they flatten?). I see they sell round tee nuts without the prongs, akin to those in helmets. Let me know? Thanks.
  22. I think this is where you're going to have to experiment to find out what works for you. For reference, here's what I went through to get to where I am now. When I started to experiment with profiles, it was because I had gone down half a size in skate, and it exasperated some flaws in my skating, in terms of stability in crossovers and getting up on my toes too much when accelerating. First thing I did was work on my technique to see if I could correct the issues. I tried for 6 months and only had marginal improvements. So, I got a second set of steel, and I went from a stock 10' profile with a 3/8 hollow to 12' profile with a 5/8" hollow and a +1 pitch on the new steel. Noticeable improvement in stability on crossovers, but also noticeable loss in agility, but that wasn't a concern because I had plenty to spare. I liked what I felt, but I wanted to see what a 13' profile would feel like, so I took my old steel and got it profiled to a 13' radius with a 3/4" hollow. Felt like it was a bit too much with the 13' so I stuck with the 12' profile. Another 6 months goes by. Still having issues with getting up on my toes too much, but stability is on point. I try the 13' profile again, but after getting used to the 12' profile the 13' now feels almost exactly like the 12' profile. So time for another change. I get my 12' steel profiled to a 13' with a neutral pitch instead of the +1 to try and keep me off my toes more. Turns out this is another step in the right direction.. More time goes on. More experimenting with other parts of my skate's set up. Still having issues with getting on my toes, so I do something way out of the box, I tried a negative pitch. Again, a positive step. BUT, this time it there was a big price to pay. The negative pitch made the heel area less stable, so I had stability issues again. I did some mental math and went to the shop asking for a profile larger than 13'. They didn't have templates for anything larger in a single radius. I thought about it some more and looked at my options. I ended up doing something even more out of the box. I went back to the shop and asked for a 13'/26' duo profile (which some goalies use) with a negative pitch and a 13/16 radius. This is what I'm on now except I'm on a 1" hollow now. This is what works for me. It not only allowed me to correct the issues, it allowed me to advance beyond what I was before. And the loss of agility, I don't even notice it any more. In fact, I'm sure I gained a lot of it back by simply becoming a better skater. In all honesty, profiling isn't a quick fix. There's no magic bullet that solves things for all people, so don't expect perfect results. It's a journey comprised of a bunch of tiny incremental steps, where you need time to assess if something is working or not. Each time I made a change, it took a while before I could genuinely tell if it was helping or not. and how I wanted to proceed. Eg. A 13' profile was too much at first, and now, it's not enough. Any ways, hope some of this... whatever it is... helps.
  23. Sorry guys, this one went off the rails in a hurry. Closing this up for now.
  24. I would check out fiverr.com - that's where I go for most of my art commissions. If you don't find anything you like I can ask around on the Adobe Illustrator and graphics Discords I'm on.
  25. Practice last night...my left pinky toe was feeling it. May have to push the toe cap out a few mm's. Not sure why it didn't bother me before. I do notice that the toe cap is a bit more narrow than the AS3 Pro. Not sure why, but...it's fixable. Other than that...noice!
  26. The ankle padding in the 70k and 80k's are thicker and softer than what's you get in the 100k. On the flip side, the comfort edge on the 100k is way more robust. I LOVED the ankle padding in my 70ks. It's the only thing I don't like about the 100k pros. I considered going custom just to get that back. With the price hike of $400 it didn't seem worth it.
  27. You can do it yourself with 6/32 pronged Tee nuts and SS screws. About $20 from a hardware store. I’ve done this over two dozen times with my own skates and my sons, ice and roller. You only need 8 per skate (4 back & 4 front). They won’t feel any different and are strong. I have my own skate riveter now but my younger son (18UAA) is still using his pair mounted with Tee nuts. This will allow you to try the holders on a separate boot before committing to a full mount from a pro shop.
  28. I bake my skates 3 times, each time for 4m 30s. Thats with the oven already prewarmed
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