Miller55

Whichever stinks less, since they're pretty similar design from what I remember. I had CL that I sold pretty quickly for some reason and rbz 150, which was not top of the line. They were similar style though. I would just pick whichever are less stinky. Sounds funny but I find used pads to be gross. I guess if you have no choice you gotta do what you gotta do

Yeah that makes sense as long as they're brand new. I would definitely start with 83a before the 85a asphalts. They're also a few bucks cheaper so if they work I save a few bucks and if they don't I can just use them for asphalt so it's not a complete bust. Be

I'll definitely post my thought on the R1 after I get set up on them. Wood usually has a heavy urethane based laquer coating which is super grippy, but could be really slow. If I remember correctly the yellow grippers are 80a or so? Might be 78. I think for polished and painted cement and wood I'm going to try the new world cup reissues 82a.

Thanks. I have a few different rinks that I play at, only one is sport court and I'm probably not going to continue playing there (leagues suck, times suck, rinks are small, very cliquey guys). There is an outdoor ice mesh court not far, but it literally destroys any and every wheel. I felt like a 13 year old playing with 3 chewed up millenniums there after like 3 games. Couldn't justify 3 new sets of wheels for one roller season. So that's out. The best indoor is wood, which is much grippier than tiles, so I think even the pures will be too soft. The other issue is that I can't find them anywhere, only 72mm +2. It seems like anyone who liked them bought up whatever stock was left. The other surfaces I play on are street asphalt and painted or polished cement. I pre-ordered the R-1s and if I like them I will probably use those for outdoor and keep the sprungs for indoor only. For some reason the idea of alloy makes me feel more comfortable than plastic. I'm on with the plastic on wood, but in asphalt, not as much. I've used my sprungs outdoors lately and they are just too soft, especially around the axels and the axels themselves, they just look shredded from almost nothing. I don't want to have to think about babying my skates while I play, so I'd rather just keep them for indoor. If I go to the R1 for asphalt I'll probably just use regular 85a Labedas. My assumption is that the R1 is not like the sprungs with extra grip, they still rely entirely on the wheel for the rebound and the flex to grip the surface. At best I will pick up a set of tricksters, but the Labedas will have to be an absolute performance/durability fail to justify that for me. If you know anywhere that has 8x80mm +2 Konixx Pures, let me know and I'd definitely try them

There's probably one on YouTube, I remember seeing one years ago on skateboard wheels. Basically the same idea. Yeah, that's expensive. I saw in euros for 13 euros each, which is like 15usd. Fit asphalt wheels it's a lot and I wouldn't buy them. I would use them for indoor wood honestly. At $15 they're only a dollar more than addictions, which is not that big a deal to me aiming they will last much longer. My predicament is essentially that there is no indoor wheel that is hard enough for me, given the combination of my weight, hard skating and the sprungs. The hardest indoor wheels you can find are usually 78a, which is like walking in mud with those 3 factors. The other option is basically to use asphalt wheels inside, but I will probably not get as much grip as I'd like to. So the world cup 82a reissue and the MPC freestyle dual pour 84a are the only real options for me, since they are hard, grippy and play softer than outdoor wheels. If I don't like the new world cups and can't get my hands on freestyles, my only real option is tricksters. All of this is obviously assuming the rink will open in time for fall season, and who really knows at this point what's going to be

Kinda but if you watch a video on how Iran wheels are made it will probably be simpler to understand. Dual pour also means that they are using two molds. The first mold is making the inner core, which is basically like making a baby wheel. Then they set that into the regular molds and pour the outer urethane. This is why they cost double, since they are essentially making two wheels for each wheel they produce, so your saying for the process twice. Why the tricksters are so expensive though, is a different story. They aren't selling the MPC in the states. If you go direct through RR you might be able to get a set.

They are different. Dual pour is the process. Dual durometer is the material. Dual pour means that each durometer is poured separately and set individually. Dual durometer means that the two different urethanes are poured simultaneously, so they do not set separately and they do not each form their own layer. Instead, you have a single pour, dual durometer urethane that had some of the advantages of both and is typically superior to single durometer single pour wheels, but inferior to dual or triple pour/durometer wheels. This is my understanding of it, and if you look at RR promo materials on the trickster, you will see clearly that they refrain from writing anything about dual pour, but they try to wordsmith it in such a way that the dual durometer sounds like you're getting the same advantages. But they consistently avoid writing dual pour because it isn't.

Yeah, I figured they'd be able to get me some if I contact them directly. I'll probably hold off until rinks and league play reopens to try to order. I was planning on using them for indoor wood actually. I'm about 30lbs lighter than you, so I'd probably do fine with the world cups anyway, but I'm more interested in the dual pour freestyle. I'm using sprungs and with my weight and how hard I skate I would love to get on an 84a dual pour for indoor wood and tile. I think the grip would be ok since the sprungs flex a decent amount, and they would probably fly. I can't see myself on 78a and sprungs. Tried that on painted concrete and it was slowww. For outdoor asphalt I'm using 89a or 90a. Anything less lasts me about 3-4 skates. I'll really just have to see what surfaces open up for league play soonest before I order anything though. Until then it's all asphalt for us.

Dual durometer, but not dual pour.

Yeah I figured they would be amazing on wood. I'll have to try them when the rink opens back up. It's nice to have an 84a dual pour, especially with sprungs. Edit: well it seems like nobody in the US is selling them... The only option is really the world cup reissues directly from RR, and they're 82a, not 84.

Yeah 78a is too soft for me too. How do you find the dual pour freestyle on each surface? Used on asphalt at all?

No idea, I have always played defense. I would imagine not very much though honestly

I hear. Hate to laugh but that's pretty funny.

Does a slalom wheel have the same elliptical profile? Not familiar with the sport, seems like a very European thing honestly

Why is Shane Doan blasting bombs in men's league? Even if it's A level, that's just uncalled for. That's bruise is nasty too, major bummer. That's pretty frightening, through a top of the line guard, to get something like that.

I wouldn't do that if you're doing anything that might involved you losing your balance. That's the easiest way to break an ankle, even if you have strong ankles like most of us probably do, if you roll your ankle like that it's not like a sneaker, you're rolling from a few inches up, off of a narrow wheel base and your ankle will crunch. If you're going slow or goofing off it's one thing, but even then I'd be very cautious.

We're you using the Pure X in a +2? What surface do you play on and how much do you weigh? I was under the impression that the +2 Konixx is akin to 78a. Is that correct?

Yup. I sold about a dozen pairs of old roller skates at the very beginning of the shutdown and another dozen shafts with ABS blades. I would love to get rid of some of these gloves though. I've got about 10-12 pairs that I'm almost ready to give away.

Not sure when it started, but it's definitely been around for a while

Too many to list... To answer the question though: bought and mounted 2 pairs of sprungs on a pair of 1s and 2s pro Supremes and I pre ordered marsblades R1 frames. And I ordered 3 new sticks Easton pro stock v9es for about 90 bucks each. Some new outdoor wheels and blades if you count just the functional stuff to get through lockdown too. Plus a few green biscuit pucks, the ones for shooting. About a grand total.

As far as I recall, all ice boots are like this and I don't think it's an issue so long as you get the frames mounted on the thicker area, even if it's towards the inner edge of that area.

Yup, especially with sprungs that are a bit funky to mount and line up. I have been having frames swapped for close to 2 decades, from the old generator and eframes, but I always take it to a pro. I'm very handy and I have a good eye too (I work as a bookbinder) but when it comes to skates I trust pros only. A screw up on these and I could go down hard. I don't really have time for broken anything at this point. To me it's a matter of safety.

It should fit... Just looking at mine, they are fine. I believe this is something that sprungs considered, as they were marketing their frames to be used on ice boots for conversion. That was a big point for them, to convert the same boots you use for ice to roller. I would try to live them up again and make sure to have front and back wheels on them, and they're supposed to be mounted a quarter inch back from center I believe. The better option might be to try to drill out a bit of the frame base plate to enlarge the holes just slightly to the outside, and you should be able to fit the frame onto the main part of the outsole. Otherwise have a pro do it, because you ain't gettin another pair of sprungs too quickly

The reality of comp sticks is that sometimes they break super quickly and totally randomly. That's why they have warranties. I would venture to guess that everyone on here knows someone who broke even a stick that's known to be a tank. There's a difference between durability and fluke breaks. I bought 2 TPS tricore3s about 15 years ago or something (whenever they came out). One broke within a week or so, maybe 5 sessions (2 games, 2 practices, one pickup) judging from how often I played then. The other is still going strong and is my go to shaft. I have probably used over 100 abs blades in it. Both 75 flex, and when I broke the first one I must have weighed 135lbs, and now I weigh 195, and it's fine. (The shop warranted the first one BTW, but if it remember correctly they didn't have another one in Reg flex, so I opted for a different model, probably a redlite). My point is that durability shouldn't be judged by fluke breaks common to all comp sticks. In my eyes it's more about how long did the shaft and blade last on one that didn't just randomly snap. I never owned one, but everyone I know that uses them likes them very much. That said, should you drop to a whippier flex? That's your call really

Maybe put a compression arm sleeve over your elbows. Or some sort of Velcro strap.