Buzz_LightBeer

https://sidelineswap.com/gear/hockey/sticks/10734559-bauer-senior-nexus-e50-pro-right-handed-hockey-stick-p28-new?referral_code=Zydo441 P28 87 flex, brand new. Was a warranty replacement I’ve no use for. $145 to your door in the U.S.

I'm sure you've done your share of troubleshooting on this, but that sounds like a cage issue more than a helmet issue. stretch out the cage so when you close it, the sides aren't compressed in?

In my experience they've always had supply issues with the baselayer stuff. They also seem to have a very small window of sales before items hit the clearance racks

Sold a while back on SlS, sorry

I don’t know the thresholds for their customs, but NHL player customs are migrating to be made in Thailand, your retail customs may be the same. If that’s an important aspect for you.

you may consider a more supple insole in your current goalie skates for comfort otherwise a middle to lower-middle end player skate might be softer and easier on the feet for standing. you could have a flatter profile done to the blades to give the stability you're accustomed to in goalie skates.

Someone familiar with heating and a boot stretcher should be able to help you. Even if there is a small fee it’s well worth it.

I’ve had a few brands of coated steel and in my experience at least, they tend to go dull unexpectedly and all of the sudden. In Randow spots all over. not gradually like a stainless would. Maybe the intensity of the league matters too, I do t think they take kindly to contact with boards, other blades, etc

It’s about exactly this much different. TC6 has white tape

I have both and CCm is slightly lower

First time the build code was clearly legible, I guess was my point

https://sidelineswap.com/gear/hockey/sticks/9228470-warrior-new-novium-pro-w28m-75-flex-left-hand-pro-stock-stick-item-tdnvp First time I've seen a legitimate Novium Pro build in a Pro stick, T8NVMP

It may be available in the pro bank, but it isnt listed as an offering in the 2025 catalog

It's less a matter of flattening the blade as it is removing the factory polish or coating. New blades come very inconsistent on the bottom, but the coating really gums up a sharpening wheel. Removing that first layer with a mostly flat hollow makes the first sharpen and every subsequent one easier. If you try to do a new cut with a normal hollow, at least with a traditional sharpening wheel, you heat the steel and do a number on the wheel unnecessarily. Plus it takes twice the time. I imagine the same principle applies with these sharpening rings. Also, I would put out there that a "flat" ring and say a 1 1/2" hollow are reasonably similar at those widths, you could accomplish the same with either

I would disagree with your one commenter, the big silver wheel should move the diamond in and out (closer to or further from) the grinding wheel horizontally.