Buzz_LightBeer

I picked up two yesterday to fool around with, planned on putting a review together. My first impression is underwhelming. The presentation is nice, but to be honest, I had anticipated it being permanent (at least to the life of the stick) but the packaging recommends replacing it after 8-10 sessions.

Not specifically, but just trolling PSH, Schwartz, Giordano, Bennet and Brodie seem to be in that realm

A few pros use something like that. Jaden Schwartz comes to mind

Are they; A- trying to use the same holes without drilling new? B- trying to install the holders with steel taken out? That would be the most likely culprit imo. when I swap holders, I mark the center of where I want the holder front and back. I use 2 strips of 3M thick double sided tape to hold the holder in place so I can readjust. The tape holds the chassis in place while you drill a stabilizing hole front and back. That should get the holder attached straight and square for finishing drilling. If for some reason the bottom of the boot and top of the holder aren’t square a small shim may take up the needed space

Where’s a CCM F•I•T machine when you need one?

True is offering P90T at retail next year, in one model

Yes, but not so easy to come by. HCR is True

They had two stick lines at the time, the RS was the true low kick elliptical shaft stick, and I would take issue with them calling the Mako a low kick comparatively. based on weight and shaft shape, I’d personally avoid the Ultra Sonic, Sling, Geo or Hyperlite. Find a 2S or 2N or similar and in my opinion you’d find a stick more similar to the original Mako outside of Bauer, the A5.2 from True might be something you’d like as well

If I’m remembering right the OG mako was still a fused stick so in that regard no current Bauer’s would be like it. but it was a mid-high kick so I’d probably try a Supreme, 2S/3S or similar. I’d avoid top end Bauer’s, go with the second tier stick currently.

Keep an eye out for any "team" variety sticks too, they were usually readily available it those

If you're reasonably mechanical, you could look for a mangled old pair of MLX or something and repurpose the bolt/nut setup. Ive done it to my skates for over a decade without issue

Any shop that can do rivets should be able to handle that

Deron Quint on line 1…

For the one time fluke fall as you’ve described, I’d say any helmet in decent shape should suffice as long as the fit is correct. mid you want a modern upgrade I’d check out the Tacks 210 and 310

That, and they used to be compared to Custom + and ProLite 3, which is where I think that Graf idea came from

https://www.hockeystickman.com/products/blackout-skates?utm_content=Facebook_UA&variant=39563397496966&utm_source=IGShopping&utm_medium=Social who is brave enough to jump out on beer league ice in $100 “high-quality” skates? 🥴

Some of the newer CCM youth skates come pre sharpened, that may be the difference you were noticing. what’s going on is your wheel was getting gummed up by the factory coating, regardless of whether you’d “gotten a hollow” or not. Either cross grind them or use the 1.5” hollow method and your headaches will go away. Ruby or blue wheels seem to be the most popular for this application. No sense buying too end wheels for what you’re doing on rental skates

Apologies, I read it as Custom Fit system. Are you able to try them on in person? im sure there was some change as CCM transitioned to the new boots, Pures website has a pretty comprehensive comparison chart I’d be inclined to trust it’s accuracy

If it was cheap/old/rusty/dull steel my advice would’ve been to first do each pair on as shallow of a hollow as your dresser will do, 1.5” or so will work. Then once the working edge is clean I’d circle back and do them at whatever hollow you would finish them at. Should save you a ton of headaches and wasted wheel in the future. if they’re super rusty, a dab of thread cutting oil on the rust should loosen it up a bit before putting them on the wheel. might not be the worst idea to keep a more aggressive grit wheel on hand as well -Edit, I just reread that they were new, definitely take off the factory edge as I stated and put the working hollow on in a second go around-

I went through the process fully expecting to be in an EE but ended up in FT4 D. Couldn’t be happier with what I got.

If all you want is a repalm, HockeyMenders does a great job and doesn't take too long

I may be misremembering but about that time, near the Bauer buyout, I think they took all Mexican production and moved it to China. Guys deeper in the industry may be able to confirm or deny that

Depending how thick you're trying to go you can easily fashion some yourself out of scrap plastic. If they're to be used long term maybe find someone who knows 3D printing, and see if that process could handle the stress of skating on

Easton price pointed sticks were made in various places. I'm sure Vietnam was one of them. Top of the line were made in Mexico until at least the CX iirc

FallFest weekend pickups 14” Ferland/Combat 52 Cal Bruins mitts 13” HoneyBaked Bauer pro team gloves Brand new Large Franchise elbows like new Medium HT2 Eagle player bag UltraSonic retail Size 9 Fit 3 new