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If they add volume to the those fits, doesn’t that mean that people who fit well into fit1/tapered will get pushed out the other way, and skates will have too much volume?

Why do you need to change the steel? Is it broken, or you want to upgrade it? To put new holders and steel on, your cost would probably be around $100+ if you could find used stuff that works, much more for new. For those skates, you’re better off just putting that money towards new skates.

For what it’s worth, I generally wear 15” gloves, but felt 15” Trues were too long in the fingers when I tried them on, and a touch roomier that I wanted. They were 7X and 9X. I honestly don’t know if they have had different iterations of those yet. I assume glove fits change slightly person to person, depending on the size ratio of fingers to hands.

Do non-nhl pro players even have options to these hyper specific types of requests? If I was an AHL player, could I request a custom shaft shape on a model from 5 years ago? Or would the eqm just tell me to shut up and get on the bus?

Cranky adults like us who are irrelevant don’t like the bright bold colors. Kids who buy new skates every year do. Youth tastes 100% drive the aesthetic designs, and that’s pretty much guarantees to be the opposite of what older players like. Just wait 20 years and all black skates will come back and then the 30-40 year olds on here will be complaining how modern skates these don’t have giant streaks of color on them.

Kane prostock Proto R, or retail Proto R with Kane p88 curve?

Do people run into a lot of situations where you need to change steel mid beer league game? I can probably count on two fingers the times I’ve lost an edge so badly I would need to spend the time an energy mid game to change the steel.

The power feet are an interesting feel. If you’re intrigued, buy some or make some. I like the zero negative space feel with the very slight pressure on my toes.

If you’re redoing that much stuff, just pretend it costs another $600 and wrap the cost of the skates into the renovations. Other stuff is probably way more zeros on the end.

I like the matte look on teams. It’s an interesting change. Rough look for anyone not on a competitive team with fully matching uniforms.

Fwiw, I’m also not someone who uses a ton of different blades or is very good, so take my descriptions lightly. I’m not 100% right, but I don’t think I’m 100% wrong either haha.

He’s got three Malkin variations. The original Malkin, the Malkin 2 which is also labeled the Galchenyuk variation (I have this one), and one that’s the Malkin curve with a p92 profile. Pardon the SAT analogy, but for me, I feel like the p90TM is to the p92 as Malkin 2 is to the p88. Take the original curve, and just add a toe curve and more height. Comparing p90TM and Malkin 2, p90TM is more open, M2 is more neutral. P90TM starts a little more in the heel. M2 has a flatter profile. M2 is more squared off toe, but less square than say a stock Lidstrom.

I’ve never played with a p19, so that might be a better description. Backstrom is definitely “thin” or “not tall” or whatever description you use to describe less height is. It’s noticeably less tall than stock profiles. Not sure what the advantage of reduced height is, but I have enough challenges in my game, I’ll take all the height I can get.

Anyone get any weird/dumb/awesome curves from them lately? Picked up a Malkin-2 and a Backstrom just after US Thanksgiving. I really like the Malkin. It’s like a taller p88 with a bit of a toe curve. The toe is nice for stickhandling, but I can still shoot out of the mid-pocket with my wonky old man mechanics. All these modern super open toe curves kill me. Backstrom looks and plays like a pm9 with a shaved pointy toe. It was billed as a “more lofty p88,” which…I dunno….it doesn’t feel like that to me.

Wouldn’t it matter where ankle foams finish wrapping your ankle? The edge of the boots can be the same height, but if the foams stop at different heights and the cuff flares beyond that, wouldn’t that change the effective height?

Literally everyone who is mildly selective about sticks says these are always somewhere between low end mediocre to trash. The people who hype them up are either the people selling them, or people who love a “good deal” above all else. Whats more likely - a factory in China is gonna sell unbranded Bauers/CCMs out the back door to some random suburban dad in the USA, or that those sticks are actually just off brand sticks that play poorly and weigh around 400 grams? People delude themselves it’s actually a $400 stick with no graphics but the scenario is so full of holes. If all you care about is weight, go for these. But if you care about feel, balance, performance, etc, spend $30 more and buy a prostock stick from somewhere.

And just kind of talking as part of an ADVERTISEMENT….. It’s not a video reporting piece about how players adopted their curves, it’s Easton marketing material.

When does one use the ruby side vs when to use the white side?

For the history of who developed given curves, don’t we assume it’s like Leibniz and Newton both developing calculus independently at the same time through different routes? If there’s enough guys tinkering with curves, eventually two people are gonna get to them same idea.

I broke a holder on my TF7s. A few questions for the brain trust: a) do the Max holders have the same hole pattern as the shift? b) I’ve seen a few places say that the Shift steel can go in Max holders, but not the opposite. Is that correct? I’m hoping to avoid buying new steel. c) Are there any other holders that line up with the shift hole pattern without having to drill new ones?

For future reference SMU = Special Make Up. They are designs offered to only certain retailers, usually a mix between two price points. Sometimes it’s a good value and you’re getting upgraded tier 2 specs at a tier 3 price point. Other times they are putting lipstick on a turd. I was looking at some Jetspeed SMU elbows and the “upgrades” were different colors and a chrome CCM logo.

Can you post a pic of your “funky triangular knob?”

Did you get just the collar, or the one with the “bib”?

How’s the sizing on these? One size fits all from 11yo to adult makes me nervous they’d be super tight on adult feet.

Last dedicated thread I could find was 10 years old, so wanted to start a new one. Any strong recommendations for cut resistant skate socks? Or advice on brands/models you didn’t like for one reason or another?