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They aren’t selling to you, they are selling to teenagers who will throw a tantrum unless their parents buy them the newest sticks. And hockey parents who think their kid will make the nhl if they just spend enough money on sticks.

Ask them to remove the tape on that one blade, that’s a great way to hide bad wear. Plus, that description is so vague. It just says used. They could have seen 3 games of adult league and been carried as backups after the seller changed sticks, or the blades could be totally shot and soft and the shafts whipped out. There is a reason they are selling them for so cheap. Maybe they just want them gone. Or, maybe they are beat up and barely usable.

Did you have an edge at the start of the game? Could have banged it on something mid game and lost it. If you had it at the start, then didn’t have it later, to me, that speaks to some “traumatic” event rather than being bad from the start. And, also, buy an edge checker. 🙂

Do you have an accessory navicular? It’s like an extra bone bump below your inside ankle. Other people have has success punching that are out to give it a little more space.

You can also google p28 vs p92 to find images and discussion. And/or if you play hockey with people who have both, you could compare them side by side. I’m not trying to be rude or salty. There’s a lot of info out there, and that will give you a better understanding than one or two replies here.

You can use any hockey insole that’s the the right size. It doesn’t need to be Bauer Vapor.

How long ago did you get them profiled? If it feels off, just pay to re-profile. And/or if it feels drastically off and they’ve been doing the sharpening, maybe go somewhere else?

There’s a million threads comparing p92s to p88s, and for all intents and purposes, p90TM is a p92 with a toe hook. So, google all those “p92 vs p88 threads.”

There are good how to videos on the Sparx website for where and how to set that.

At this point, we need Virginia Tech to do an arbitrary study of stick length and flex and we can all disagree on everything.

This is all semantics. You’re just stopping the word flex and inserting the word leverage. You’re not solving any problems. It doesn’t matter what you call it. Flex, leverage, whatever. I have a stick with a bizzapapa rating of 75, and I cut 2” inches off and it now has a different, more resistant or “stiffer” bizzapapa feel. Put whatever word you want there. They are creating more confusion by talking about the flex of the materials in the stick, and not the flex of the stick itself. As it is now, it’s not wrong. They aren’t correcting an error, they are creating a semantic argument about the definition of “flex.” Full copyright on bizzapapa terminology and tech. Bauer, hit me up, let’s talk.

The problem for me with that video is that while all the jargon is true, that’s not people think about sticks flexing, and not how hockey players have discussed flex in real world terms in the history of hockey sticks. When we as hockey players say “75 flex” or “95 flex” we are taking about the general feel in the bend of the shaft for how much force we are putting on it, and how the feel of that force relates to each other. That True video is needlessly adding all this complicated discussion of materials so they can say “well technically the flex doesn’t change.” But we all know damn well from experience it does. It’s needlessly complicated and just creates confusion. It’s some heavy breathing neckbeard nerd shit meant to mislead people. Maybe we should have been using the term “leverage” for the past 40 years to discuss flex instead of the word “flex.” But, we didn’t, and no reason to try to mess with it now. Shut up, True.

When you put on the skates, do you pull them on by pulling on the tongue? Having the tongues come loose is an odd failure point, as there’s no torque or pressure otherwise being applied there.

The warrior pros were still good sticks. For the senior models, they were a few extra inches longer than whatever the standard market length is. There was a DX Team stick, that’s a different stick, it was a prostock option for juniors and college teams. Those mapped more to the “3rd” pricing tier.

Warrior _____ pro used to be the second to top of the line. Then, Bauer started making pro their “top” stick, now warrior does that too. I think DX was Warriors last product line where pro was the second tier. But, now I think Bauer has some lines where it like model (3), model pro (2), and sameline newname(1) for top tier. “This stick goes to 11.” “But why not just make it shoot harder, and still have 10 as the top rating?” “Yeah, but this stick goes to 11.”

Haha, present company excluded.

I know this is a generational thing and I’m “old man yelling at cloud,” but those are probably the two worst possible sources for hockey equipment feedback. The Reddit hockey forum is full of, well, idiots, and most YouTube reviews are click-baity garbage driven by people who read the Reddit hockey forum. It’s people who know just enough about hockey equipment to completely get everything wrong, and do so in the loudest way possible.

I think it’s more the force you are applying to the lace, which then puts force on the eyelet. The goal is to pull sideways so the lace is going out through the eyelet with minimal contact and friction. When the is tightened, firm, consistent tension on the eyelet is not going to pull it out or unseat it. It’s the “violent” act of pulling the lose lace through the eyelet that is going to pull it out. So, pulling up or down creates that friction of the lace across the eyelet, whereas pulling out out ideally minimizes it. The goal is primarily trying to pull the loose lace through the eyelet without touching it.

I hope the nhl moves to a model where at the first game, there’s a giant pile of XL practice jerseys in the middle of the floor. You get whatever number you get. Johnny Gaudreau ends up wearing a goalie cut because he came late and there was nothing left. Eventually the navy team plays the black team and one team has to wear yellow pinnies. If a players gets called up mid season, they just wear whatever random jersey they have in their bag.

Did you bake them when you tried them on? General wisdom on Trues is you find a size where foot can barely fit in the skate, then bake them, and they fit really well. However, you did say too big in some places and hot spots in others, so that can be a tough combo.

Finally, a skate with more ankle flexion and less negative space to replace makos. And, it has the fancy holder/steel combo from the od1n skates. Glad to see companies incorporating new technology and taking chances on designs.

Is the need for stiff skates for ankle stability due to some lingering injury, body issue, or health concern, or are the stiff skates helping with a lack of ankle strength and control? I don’t say that to call you out or something, just clarifying. If you’re covering up mechanical issues with stiff skates, you’re gonna be better off getting something softer and doing some power skating classes to develop that muscle control. But, if the stiff skates are because you’ve had had a bunch of ankle surgeries or long term foot and leg issues, people might be able to give advice for supports and fixes that have worked for them What did the profile of the old steel look like vs the new one? If it’s a radically different profile, new skates are going to feel clumsy and wrong.

It’s literally baking the skate with body weight distributed differently. It’s less drastic than punching the boot for a hot spot.

Outside of buying drugs or designing a nuclear reactor, 30 grams seems exceedingly negligible.

It sucks that companies put the onus on shops to manage returns. Sounds like CCM and Bauer offer the guarantee, then turn around and push back on local stores to enforce some sort of “read between the lines” aspect of whether they will cover the returned skates. LHSs, ya’ll doin gods work, while CCM and Bauer then sell direct to consumer and try to undercut your sales.