Buzz_LightBeer

By now I would guess a good chunk of EQM are ordering them with traditional eyelets unless the player specifically wants injected

TC1 was indeed the Ovechkin style heel TC3 is Bjugstad’s pattern that he’s used for a while. Big toe curve with a rounded blade. TC6 will be the P90TM MC is the P88, MC2 was the PM9 I believe. MC3 didn’t exist at custom level according to the 2017 order form so it must be a relatively new offering. They offered Kessel Pro as well as Byfuglein, so they may have migrated a pro pattern over to that, but I’m just speculating.

“How used are they, and are they really worth saving?” Would be the first questions I’d ask. What size are they? If they’re relatively new and the tendon guard broke, I’d assess how they’re being treated and handled. I’ve seen aftermarket repairs, but by the time you get them and have them installed, you’d be well on your way to a replacement pair.

The rough Polar Fibre texture blade that some CCM models have

I relate it to the NHL All Star game. I hate it but I also realize I’m not the target demographic. So meh 🤷🏽‍♂️

That diamond should articulate lower than horizontal, what’s stopping it? Tough to see from the photos

True it is info overload, and the art of sharpening is way more than any of us could put into text unfortunately. in general terms pink/Ruby wheels maximize the quality of sharpen and cost effectiveness if you’re doing decent quality non rusty blades. Some guys may prefer other wheels for their blades but pink or Ruby is a good place to start.

Judging by the shape of the wheel that seems intended (or the way it’s been for quite some time). As long as you’ve got an edge checker and you maintain the radius in the center of the blade, you shouldn’t have an issue

Like the title says, New MLX boots, new 272 Edge holders attached. Some minor flaws, a few extra hole in boot, light use on LS2 steel, scuffs from storage. All are solid, no structural compromise. Pics to follow $250 shipped to your door in the US, open to offers

When were they ordered? And when did you take receipt? how many times have you worn them? Did you not notice the size discrepancy when you first got them? true, the shop from which you ordered should be handling these issues, but if you’ve had them for quite a while, that’s the biggest thing that may be working against you in that regard

They were Grafs most flexible skate by far. I believe they were designed for Fedorov rehabbing an ankle injury.

Maybe scour SLS and eBay for some 707’s?

Blue Sports has them in loose and tight fit. Where you find Blue Sports in stock is anyones guess https://www.blue-sports.com/product/compression-jock-short-with-garter-belt-senior-small/

Imo the scan had me at 8.75 and erred to the 9D. Personally I would’ve opted smaller because I like skates tight. But short answer yes, size for size

I was a nexus guy, skated in both supreme EE, and D (with some discomfort(, and got fitted for FT4 D, with surprisingly no width issues. May not be the same for everyone, just my experience

https://sidelineswap.com/gear/hockey/sticks/4415856-bauer-new-2-pack-vapor-adv-flylite-dress-lh-77-flex-p46-stick-em-grip?referral_code=Zydo441 something like this

A P46 in a pro stick may be a transition

The 2-piece Bauer/Cooper style pants are tanks as well and very padded in the rear/hip

Solid week of vintage pickups

maybe a pant upgrade in conjunction with a pair of sliding shorts, what s your current pant? https://www.shockdoctor.com/products/core-padded-sliding-short-ice-dragon?variant=41161381609644

Then yes, your gauges should get the job done with some degree of accuracy. You'll probably want to replace that wheel right away, put some Kroil or similar on the screw for dressing, and Turtle Wax the table surface (on second look, maybe a wire wheel to knock that rust off, then a Turtle Wax polish)

https://prosharp.us/collections/accessories/products/hollow-thickness-checker this would work as well

Correct, once your radius is set, move the diamond closer until you get a full dress. I would then make a habit of back ing it off some, or all the way so you dont ram the diamond into the wheel by mistake. Blademaster sells a radius gauge that would help you calibrate where you need the diamond to be for a certain hollow

It looks like turning the diamond to move it in and out sets the radius. The larger thumb wheel should move the articulating arm closer to the wheel as you dress up and down on it. so, set the radius on the diamond, then move it towards the wheel until it starts dressing it